Food is only part of a good meal. Granted, it’s the most important part, but it can’t stand alone. What I like about Anthony Bourdain, if it’s not too sycophantic, is what he brings to the table besides the food; the experience, the knowledge, or even the smart-ass comments. The surroundings and company don’t have to be fancy, but there has to be conviviality, a topic of interest, and somebody worthwhile to share that with, or for me the meal is lost. A perfect rogan josh, puttanesca, or caviar-speckled blini is lost without having someone to share it with, or at least look on in envy.

This is why dinner parties are such a good idea; there’s an art, all too often forgotten, to creating an enjoyable or amusing atmosphere for a meal. Granted, some of the best settings, like some of the best food, happen spontaneously, but more often than not they require planning and preparation, even if they are meant to appear spontaneous. Much as people muse on the perfect food, people muse on the perfect dinner companion, and even make a game of it. That’s why Julia Child was so popular; not only did she know her food, but she was a former spy and witty, and presumably said interesting things.

The benefits of companionship are evidenced in cooking, too; when alone, most people cook and eat awful food. I, for one, am much more likely to eat something poorly thought out and quickly made when alone than I am with company. Company makes me want to impress and excel. Being alone in the kitchen may make me more adventurous, but nine times out of ten the adventure is to no one’s credit.

That’s why we like food writing, and for that matter, shows about food. We can’t enjoy the food ourselves, but we can share in the atmosphere, listen to the conversation, and explore in good company the dishes before us. To read James Beard wax poetic on a single ingredient, to read Salman Rushdie gush over a jar of pickles, almost makes up for the lack of food, and makes a feast a virtual reality, complete with good and enthusiastic company. That is, one hopes, what comes out of this book as well. As close to good food (and some not so good) as the reader can get without tasting it, and as much good company (or at least interesting company) as the reader can get without sitting down next to Bourdain. To give a well done meal between covers (or a Kindle screen). Bon appetite.